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I do Turkish Get Ups bc I fucking love them. Makes me feel good

Great vid! As a sports physio there was a lot of great advice, I would however suggest most climbers would benefit from lower volume (reps and sets) with higher loads (weight) as it will not fatigue their reserves for more climbing as much (if fatigue conditioning is not the the goal). Additionally, higher loads (within safe ability) will increase the working structures capacity better (think ligaments and tendon integrity) which will better reduce risk of injury than lower loads high reps, AND higher loads of lower rep sets improve strength gains more over time and most tricky climbing manoeuvres that require a large amount of strength don't usually involve more than 1-2 reps on the wall anyway. Final unsolicited advice, would be range of motion should never be compromised for load in climbers because of the positions you may end up in are more extreme, so for example a great leg strength exercise (no leg exercises were mentioned) would be hip abducted and externally rotated to the side on a stable box/surface facing close to a wall (mimicking the rock over) then basically doing full range pistol squats in this position at load you can only do around 5 reps/set. It's super sport specific and if you can't pistol squat you can jump yourself up to the top and then try to control the negative eccentric of the movement until you can do a full pistol squat yourself. Just getting into bouldering and getting a lot from this channel, would be keen to contribute in or see a physio/climbing conditioning coach specific video in the future

How much b-roll of Aidan doing workouts do you have though lol

Honestly for me supersetting Pull ups (highly fatiguing excercise) with Squats (most fatiguing excercise there is) simply doesn’t work. It’s way too much stress on my body and I need Rest in between both excercises anyway. I think most hobby athletes do

I started climbing in a modified technique boot. Ranch style. Main source of improvement.

At the end of the day, being a strong human is always better than being a weak human. Lean muscle mass is one of the key predictors of longevity and it protects the body from injury. If you don't lift, you should strongly consider adding at least a little to your training.

I ❤️ Tenaya Tarifa 😊

The common thing ive noticed amongst all elite athletes is that they actually dont have to work as hard as non elites. They attain high grades or speed or strength very rapidly, and very quickly surpass people who lack genetics and have been training considerably longer. This isnt armchair theory, I have trained and logged hours for longer and had been professionally coached and watched people who I knew personally train not even 3/4 the amount of time and with very little attention to detail surpass me entirely due to genetics. I ate better trained more consistently, had more supervision, literally did everything that training science says that you should to a more extreme degree- and I lived with them so there was no secrets about what they were doing. But genetics will win every time. So there's really no point for intermediates to take notes on what elites do. Comparatively they really do not have to do much compared to everyone else in order to be extremely successful. That's not to say they don't work hard amongst their level-they do, however, a person with inferior genetics can train significantly more than them in an intelligent and supervised way and not anywhere near the results. Their genetic advantages provide them with so much benefit that even hearing how they describe using their body is inapplicable to an intermediate who actually would benefit from strength training to a higher degree.

Does anyone else experienced a loud pop without a pulley rupture? Are there any other reasons this sound may occur? 2 weeks ago I injured my middle finger during warmup for whatever reason.. I heard a loud pop and immediate soreness in my A4 pulley region. I already had an ultrasonic exam and everything seems fine. I can load my finger to some extend without paint but it does not feel good enough yet to climb. I do some mobility daily and will also see another physiotherapist next week..

Please a technique specific video with these athletes! Specially techniques for rock climbing would be highly appreciated! Thanks for the hard work!

Finger Strength > Technique

Where is Ollie still getting 5.10 slip on Sleuth's from? I can't find them anywhere!

Yves forearm development is phenomenal. Would love for him to visit my Grip Museum.

Olie's shirt made me hit the like buton.

Personally I am climbing because fitness/weights/running is just plain boring to me aside from some warming up and fingerboard stuff.

Its really surprising how poorly the elite atheletes understand basic weightlifting science and program it in either a useless or actively detrimental way.

yes more please

This is such poor advice. Bring slow carbs and acutal meals.

I like the format of this video. Please do one on technique! I think it's really valuable to see multiple perspectives on the same issue.

1:10 bruh, we get to wall *1* day a week, lol

Surprised deadlifts and squats weren’t mentioned much. I feel they helped my climbing. Specifically in jumping higher for dynos, and the amount I can pull through a heel hook blows the minds of guys I climb with. I think having strong hamstrings and quads makes these moves feel easy.

For me resistance training is more about keeping my body fit for climbing. Working full time, less emphasis on diet, and what it does for me mentally. Not gifted strength wise but lifting helps and it makes mind muscle connections which can be applied to the skill based sport climbing certainly is.

This is probably going to be drowned in the comments but I'm curious: Why is face pulls never recommended? For me at least it feels like on of the best exercises for climbing (pull ups and one arm row excluded)

Listening to Aidan rediscover the facepull is hilarious 😂

Wearing a Hawaiian shirt benefits Ollie's climbing more than weightlifting.

If you are a amateur who doesn't climb as much should probably be doing some weights as it is more time efficient.

Thank you! Really enjoyed the video. The concept is great. Please continue with this format.

This was the best Video on this channel!

I'm currently spending 50% of my time on the wall and 50% of my time off the wall. I've been slowly getting stronger and slowly climbing harder. I'm certain I would have plateaued a while ago if I just followed the common 'just climb' advice.

A She reaches to the hold before getting the Hip over her left foot, B Too much momentum, overshooting C Bent Left Knee too much, Hip to far away from the wall, focus on grabbing the hold instead of getting the Hip over the left foot D Strait Left Leg, Hip to far away from the wall, focus on grabbing the hold instead of getting the Hip over the left foot E Bad position of left foot, left heel to low Hip to far away from the wall, focus on grabbing the hold instead of getting the Hip over the left foot F To little Counter-Movement, not getting enough momentum, Movement of the Hips only sideways, should be more towards the wall to get the Hipps over the left foot H Body/Hips Too far away from the wall. Pulling hard on the second Hold makes barn door worse.

To be technical, weightlifting refers to the snatch and the clean and jerk. Everything else is resistant training.

She's falling. She shouldn't do that.

Aiden has rediscovered the face-pull! Seeing the climbing community as a whole getting into strength and conditioning is really i teresting.

It's always important to think of the genetic outliers with these questions. The strongest 1% are likely hyper-responders, and are much more likely to get very strong and explosive from doing little-no supplementary training. The further down on that spectrum, the more you'll need to build it.

reposting the same video for the third time

aiden gives me philosoph vibes :D

I think one thing to note is that these climbers are from the UK. I think it would be interesting to see how answers would differ amongst different climbers particular japanese climbers as in Emils recent video with Tomoa and Meichi they said that they do almost no resistance training or fingerboarding as part of their training, and yet these are two of the strongest boulderers on the comp scene.

I really liked this video. Interviewing these athletes separately lets us into their candid thoughts on these topics. I've found in my own climbing that resistance training helps my body feel more resilient and solid, whereas just climbing with no resistance training leaves me feeling brittle. I would love to see a video of this format focusing on technique training. Other topics like finger strength training and mobility would be cool to see too.

Those rows are absolutely awful for you from what i understand.

I did weighted pull ups before I was a climber and got to about 160% body weight. After 5 years of climbing and consistently become stronger across the board my weighted pull ups are almost completely unchanged because nothing I do on the wall stimulates my pulling muscles enough to cause the top end to increase (fingers are almost always more limiting than pulling power) The only way I could really train it on the wall I think would be campusing on jugs so I’m looking to start training pull ups off the wall again and I bet being stronger at them would help me on the wall a bit.

Illuminating! Can't wait for the technique training video to drop!

My biggest takeaway so far is that Ollie's shirt is gorgeous.

Professional climbers, who do almost exclusively competitions, spend most of their time on the spraywall. Sorato Anraku, Tomoa Narasaki (I would say all the Japaneses), Janja Garnbret, Toby Roberts don't lift weights that I am aware, or at least I never heard them say they do. Recently Tomoa said that he cannot even do a one arm pull up. Even though weight lifting is beneficial in almost every sport, including motorsports, beginners, average or advanced climbers do not need any specific training. We do just need to climb to get stronger. The spraywall, the moonboard, or the kilter board is all we really need. It is much more important to eat well, and rest, than lifting any weights. Consistency is the key. And to be consistent you need to rest to avoid injuries, which is indeed the reason why some athletes keep progressing and some don't. The best athletes are not the ones who train harder, but the ones who never get injured.

Focusing on standing up on the left foot, and moving the hips toward the wall?

I feel stronger, healthier and free injury since I do it, so I think is great doing it regularly, maybe not focusing too much on hipertrofy, but pure strength.